Mazda Bongo and Ford Freda technical specification, mechanical and repair tips and maintenance advice. How to fix your Bongo!

Disclaimer: Technical specifications are from reliable sources but are approximate and for general guidance only. Specifications vary between models. Tips are for general guidance only. © Allan Bugg LIMI (Allans Vehicle Services).

>>>10% DISCOUNT! CUSTOMER LOYALTY SCHEME!<.<.<. If you let me put one of my (small) stickers in your window, I give you 10% Labour discount off my usual price! You get the discount every time, for as long as the sticker is displayed!

A big thanks to Ian Harley and BongoFury for the praise on THIS LINK!

Mark1 or Mark2 Bongo? People have asked me about new and used parts for the Mk2 (new shape) Bongo. I've listed below my experience and that of others I've spoken to. If you have anything useful to add, please email me.

1. New parts readily available for  Mk1. Some new parts harder to find for Mk2.
2. Used parts readily available for Mk1. Used parts much harder to find for Mk2.
3. 'Non service' parts cheaper for a Mk1. Some 'non service' parts surprisingly expensive for Mk2.
4. New diesel pump readily available for Mk1. Less availability for Mk2.
5. Used diesel pump available for Mk1. Rarely available for Mk2.

I bought a few Bongos in for breaking. I looked at this black one a few times and got to thinking... It might look pretty good as a pick up. It's work in progress and will probably take a while... I'll load up more photos as it develops.

UPDATE: The liner for the flatbed is ready to be fitted

I achieved an opening rear tailgate by adapting the standard Bongo tailgate. I also used this to create the rear bulkhead. The gives enough room for the seats to slide.

The fibreglass part of a Bongo AFT will be adapted to fit the cabin roof. 

The bodywork needs some attention.
The bed will be strengthened, adding some weight.                                                 The rear cross member, front suspension legs and wheel arches will be sorted.
The brakes will be renewed and a full service caried out.
I'll be fitting diesel pump seals.
And there are a few electrical bits that need attention.

I used a valeting product to dye the old, stained mats from faded grey to black. This has worked very well. If you want details of this product, drop me an email. 

UPDATE: Rebuilt rear cross member, replaced rear 1/4 panels,  side door leaded and smoothed, AFT roof chopped and fitted to cab. Resprayed black metalflake.

The metalflake does not show up well in the photos. It's just visible here.

Next: Underseal, fit the flatbed liner, exhaust, mechanical jobs, check handling etc. More updates to follow.

If you see me, wave and think yourself lucky that you didn't buy this one!

I had sold the two Bongos I had personally imported and owned for a few years, and decided to buy another to use as the works multi-purpose van, not a show piece. The one I bought was already UK registered so was not a new import. The bodywork had a few marks, but as I was getting it sign written, that didn’t worry me. It had a genuine 132,000 kilometres on the clock and 3 years UK service history. The only misgiving I had was that it had lost water a few months ago. The garage that had serviced it had topped up the coolant but there was no indication of why the water had been lost, or if it had over heated. As the price reflected the possible problems that may become apparent, I bought it.

I expected, so replaced the water pump and the coolant.  

I  gave it a major service and sorted the suspension problems.  

Update: I added 16” alloys and 4 new tyres.

Update: It developed an alternator fault so I fitted a new one.  I also changed the radiator, thermostat and the main hoses.  

It ran without problems for almost 1,000 miles. The only niggle was that the cooling fans were coming on too often. I knew it had cooling problems... You know how it is when it’s your own vehicle - you’re really busy and you’re going to have another look at it when you’ve got the time…  

In the meantime Tim came up did the livery/sign writing. It was looking good.  

Update: A couple of days later I drove a short distance and heard a whistling noise  from the centre of the dash. The noise got louder and the temperature gauge rapidly rose to 1 o’clock… I had to drive a few hundred yards before I could safely stop. (This is not recommended, you should stop immediately to minimise damage, but I had no choice.) Within that short distance, I heard water boiling under the passenger seat area and as it errupted through the expansion bottle. If you ever hear it you won't mistake it for anything else. The temperature gauge was at maximum.  

I allowed it to cool down but I knew that major damage had been done and the cylinder head was cooked.   

The next day I pulled the head off – there were several cracks between the valves and the combustion chambers and a high spot on the block. Along with a new head, I sorted the block and fitted several other new parts. 

I believe that it overheated in this way because before I bought it, it had a history of water loss and suspected over heating, which had weakened the cylinder head.

Update: I replaced the starter. 

Update: I’ve blanked the EGR with 2 of my blanking plates and sorted the fuel injectors. It's running sweet, almost as quiet as a V6 petrol Bongo. Fingers crossed.

Update: I've fitted a chrome A-Bar, new large spotlights and strip lights... eye catching! I’ve also blacked the windows, added a parking pole, wind deflectors, mud flaps, chrome grab handle and chrome grill.

Update: Unfortunately this overheating episode weakened the new rad - it started to leak around the top tank. So I've fitted a heavy duty radiator this time.

Update: I've fitted a rear spoiler with brake light. I've also fitted 3 new gauges in a steel pod - a water temperature gauge, low level coolant gauge and a turbo boost gauge; belts and braces, and they look pretty good.  With the heavy duty rad, I've noticed that the new gauge reads 80 degrees around town and after I've thrashed it uphill, and 70 degrees on a run. Reassuring.  

Update: I sorted the steering rack and gearbox fluid. 

Update: I serviced the air conditioning, there are no smells and it's much cooler.

Update: I still need to sort the wheel arches and cross members... I have some interesting new pimps to fit... photos coming soon! 

Update: Pimped the dash.

"Drive something different..."

My previous 1996 4wd Mazda Bongo. I don't just sell and service them, I also drive one! I also drive a Ford Freda, Mitsubishi Pajero, Toyota Landcruiser and a VW Polo.

The Mazda Bongo is also produced as a Ford Freda. They are mechanically identical. The front grill, interior fabrics, steering wheel and finish differs. They are versatile 8 seaters, suitable for every day use.

There's the Auto Free Top (AFT) with raising roof, giving standing height inside. Two can sleep in the roof compartment and 2 downstairs. And the flat top (tin top) which has a fixed roof and sleeps 2. Adding an awning to either model expands the living space for holiday use.

The commonly available 4 speed automatic 2.5 diesel engine is quiet and has plenty of power. Petrol engines are unusual and a 2.5 V6 is preferrable to the underpowered 2.0. The manual gearbox is hard to find. Both the rear 2 wheel drive and fulltime 4 wheel drive have power steering with adjustable steering wheel height and driving position.  

It's similar in size to a VW T25, but many find the driving layout is more user friendly! It handles well and I fine it's easy and comfortable to drive.

The automatic gearbox coupled with a turbo boosted engine has significant pulling power. The torque converter locks between 40-45mph. 

Built to the usual high Japanese specification with luxury interior as standard. Most vehicles come with air conditioning, heating, power steering, central locking, opening windows, electric mirrors, side impact bars, tilt steering wheel and blinds.   

The dash layout is driver friendly with controls easily reached. The multi-purpose seating can slide, tilt or reverse. The backs of the centre seats fold for use as tables. Window blinds add privacy.

This versatile 8 seater has 2 rows of seats behind the driver and passenger. AFT models produced up to mid 1996 have a rear 60/40 split seat combination, which folds against the boot sides, giving plenty of space when needed. After this date they generally have a slide and tilt bench rear seat which does not split. (Pictured here: 1996 model with split rear seat folded).

Accessories are steadily increasing in availability. These include awnings, removable or fitted kitchens, bullbars, A-bars, side steps, side and rear bars, ladders, bicycle racks, ski racks, roof racks, bars and boxes, spot and fog lights, towbars, body kits, spoilers, chrome handles, mirrors and grills, umbrella holders, fishing rod holders...

Please note, figures stated have been obtained from Japanese sources but are general guidelines only, accuracy is not guaranteed.

EXTERIOR 2.5 diesel AFT 1995-99  Exterior dimensions (LxWxH) 4585 x1690 x2090mm Interior dimensions (LxWxH) 2830 x1570 x1295mm Elevating roof: (Sleeps 2 in roofspace and 2 downstairs) Upper birth sleep 2: 6’ x 4’ approx Lower birth sleep 2: 6’ x 4’ approx Wheel base: 2920mm Treads (F/R): 1465 / 1440mm Ground clearance: 175mm Kerbweight: 2wd: 1770kg / 4wd: 1790kg Gross weight 2260kg Seating capacity: 5 or 8 Doors number: 4 Turning radius: 5.5m Fuel tank capacity: 65 litres
DIESEL 2.5 ENGINE Displacement: 2499cc diesel Engine: Mazda WL-T B series Drive: Front Max power: kw(PS)/rpm: 125ps (91.94kw) / 4000 rpm. Max torque; N*m (kg*m)/rpm: 30.0 kg*m (294.20 N*m) / 2000 rpm. Power density: 14.16. Water cooled serial 4 cylinder OHC12 valve IC turbo. Distribution type fuel injection system (with turbo). Bore compression ratios: 93mm Stroke: 92mm Top speed: 112mph Fuel consumption average: 26mpg approx Service intervals: 6,000miles.	CHASSIS / TRANSMISSION Transmission: EC-AT 4 speed automatic Power steering: Yes Tyre size, front:195/70R15 92s Tyre size rear:215/65r15 96s Braking system: Ventilated disk front and rear. Suspension system, front: McPherson type. Suspension system, rear: 5 link type TOWING WEIGHTS Calculated at 85% of kerbweight of unconverted vehicles: 2WD: 1504.5kg 4WD: 1632kg Nose weight: 85kg
COLOURS Solomon blue mica OR Solomon blue mica & silent silver metallic. Brilliant black OR brilliant black & silent silver metallic. Neat green mica OR neat green mica & silent silver metallic. Silver stone metallic OR silver stone metallic & silent silver metallic. Bordeaux mica OR Bordeaux mica & silent silver metallic. Sunlight silver metallic. Light pearl metallic/sunlight silver metallic. Light silver metallic/exceeding silver metallic. Caribbean blue metallic.	SPECIFICATION (some optional extra) Air condition / Dual air condition Central locking Electric windows Mirrors manual/electric Steering wheel tilt Drop down type rear seat Split 60/40 rear seat. Rear 3 point seat belt Side impact bar Airbag - Driver Airbag - Passenger AM/FM radio equipped cassette player. Sunroof / Moonroof Front fog lamp Front spoiler Rear wiper Rear or roof spoiler ABS (Antilock brake system) Privacy glass / UV glass Blinds manual/electric Curtains full/part Aluminium wheels Limited slip diff Seat back tables Leather steering wheel In car navigation

MAZDA BONGO BRAWNY TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION DATA: CLICK ON THIS LINK

A few ideas on what to check when buying a Mazda Bongo: I've written this quickly, please email me if you have any useful advice to add.  

Look for repaired accident damage to bodywork. Rust/corrosion underneath can sometimes be found on sills, exhaust, front and rear cross members, behind the door steps, around heater pipes, top of the front turrrets, rear wheel arches (and inner arches), across rear door lock area.

Check the rear door stays up. Check the roof raises, condition of roof compartment. Electrical: wing mirrors operate, front & rear heaters and aircon operate at all 4 speeds. Interior wear and tear, side door soft-close operation, speedo digits line up, speedo and odometer operation.

Auto box operation. Check it pulls away smoothly. Uneven tyre wear – but slight outside edge wear is common.

No ‘flashing’ hold light, no flashing glowplug light.

Check for serious oil leaks.

Knocking noises from the suspension/steering.

Check coolant levels. Check condition of hoses.

If the engine will start while the Bongo is in gear, there's a fault. Bongos should only start in either 'neutral' or 'park'.

A tip from Bill, Plymouth: Rear lights are expensive to replace. If they are cracked, knock the price down! (Thank you Bill).

A tip from John, Aberdeen: If you're buying one that's already UK registered and you are not the first UK owner, check for full service history. But you're not likely to get this if it's straight from Japan and you are the first UK owner. (Thanks John).

A tip from Ian, Norfolk: If the expansion bottle is discoloured, the engine may have previously overheated. (So ask, and check the service history, but bear in mind that these tanks can discolour as they age, without overheating.)

Damaged Mazda Bongo heads

The photos below show the major damage that can happen to the head of a Mazda Bongo when it overheats.

Head damage due to water pump failure on this Bongo. Note damage to sensor.

Head damage due to radiator failure on this Mazda Bongo.

Mazda Bongo / Ford Freda thermostat housing

Thermostat fitted in housing, thermostat is fitted pointed end down.

Looking inside the thermostat housing, thermostat fitted.

COOLING SYSTEM

Coolant leaks are likely to occur on an aging system, so check the level regulary. Even a small leak will eventually empty a system. If levels are dropping, there's a problem, don't ignore it.

Leaks can leave an obvious puddle. Or coolant may collect in the engine tray, or evaporate on a hot block, leaving no obvious puddle. 

When a Bongo overheats, there are a few that suffer no visible damage at the time. If yours overheats, it's very important to find out why it happened. And keep an eye on the head and hoses, as they can be weakened by an overheating episode. 

Check the condition of the heater/coolant pipes and hoses regularly. Replace any that are soft or bulging. Also check for chaffing where the pipes pass across or close to body parts (see photo below). 

Use the correct mix of anti-freeze and water, this helps to prevent corrosion of the system.  I've seen corroded and blocked radiators many times. The wrong coolant mix can cause problems. Sediment can build up in the radiator and  eventually block waterways.  Blocked waterways mean poor coolant flow - the engine could overheat.  

It's vital that the radiator is replaced where needed and you carry out regular maintenance. And always make sure the cooling system is bled properly.

Check the thermostat is fully operational and always replace it if the vehicle overheats.

Coolant bleed hose: Air is bled from the water system via a rubber bleed hose. This runs from the engine block and is clipped to the framework. The clip breaks, causing the hose to chaffe against the bodywork. It will eventually wear a hole in the hose and lose coolant. The loss can be sudden and accompanied by clouds of steam. To secure the hose, attach a cable tie to it and fasten it through the hole behind the clip. For extra security, the bleed hose can be clad in a length of garden hose.

Also check the hose under the drivers seat as similar damage can occur.

The bleed hose is shown across the alternator. It usually lies alongside the alternator.

FUEL SYSTEM

Fuel pipes are often overlooked, but should be replaced every four years.

EGR

Loss of power, black smoke, knocking: Amongst other things, these can all be symptoms of a fault in the EGR system. 

Commonly, problems are due to faulty valve and/or pipe operation. The system can block, the valve remains open. Excess smoke or engine knock can be present. EGR pipes can leak and lose back pressure through the manifold or turbo pressure - with reduction in pulling power. But if the EGR system is working as it should, there's no reason to do anything to it. In other words, "If it aint broke, don't fix it".

Replacing the EGR system is expensive. You could attempt to clean it... Complete removal isn't easy. I prefer to blank the system and I sell blanking plates which can seal or isolate the EGR system, easily and quickly. 

I would not blank with a coin or layers of thinner steel as they have been known to disintegrate and cause damage. Blanking the pipe with a ball bearing when the valve is stuck in the open position is not effective. On the internet, you'll find discussion on the pros and cons of blanking the EGR.

Broken black pipe/green one way valve near EGR: Many Bongos come in from Japan with this broken; it’s fairly brittle and can break if knocked. If you don't want to replace it, a couple of cheap fixes have been suggested (thanks to dobby and smac02).  

Using a small piece of biro (or similar) as stub/spigot: With a drill bit, ream out the broken piece and the inside of the valve to a diameter that will receive the biro piece. Carefully glue the two parts together, checking that the valve still working. For added support, wrap repair with duct tape.

Or buy a non-return valve, as used with fish tank air pumps. Buy silicone tubing (from a model shop) that will fit the taper of the air pump valve and the connection to the bongo. Reconnect using these parts.

MECHANICAL AND ELECTRICAL

Accelerator pedal: The black button under the pedal is simply a 'stop', to prevent the pedal being depressed too far.

Beeping when key is in ignition and door is open: To stop the beeping, without cutting wires, remove the lower cover on the steering column. On the left side of the column, (under the wiper stalk), there is a small white connector (with 2 wires). Simply pull the connector apart. The beeping can be reinstated by reconnecting.

Cambelt: The diesel engine is an interference type engine. Valve to piston damage is most likely to occur if the cambelt breaks. It should be repalced at least every 60,000 miles. When considering replacement, the previous use and service history of the vehicle should be taken into account. If in doubt, renew it.

Gearbox oil levels, ATF. As there's no 'low fluid' warning light, remember to check the level. Put the gears in 'Park' and check the level on the gearbox dipstick 9located under drivers seat). The fluid should be a nice clear/dark red, and not smell of burnt toast. If it needs topping up, use Dexron 3 and a funnel in the dipstick hole. If it smells like burnt toast, or there is any foaming, get advice.

Speedo face change: The trickiest part is zeroing the needle after changing the face. Fit the speedo unit (without the glass) back into the dash, with all wires connected into the back of it. Don't fit the needle-stop post to the speedo face yet. Switch the ignition on. Then fit the needle in the zero position. Once it's in position, fit the stop-post and glass. 

Speedo Chip: I prefer to replace the speedo face and leave the odometer in kilometers, confirming the original vehicle history. You may prefer to chip the speedo and have the odo read in miles. Buy a good quality chip as some can cause problems. The wiring colour sequence is generally: red - acc live, black- earth, grey - speedo, yellow - gearbox.

BODY AND INTERIOR

Door lock barrels - are they interchangeable? The door barrels are colour coded and not interchangeable.

Footrests/seats: They're easy to fit into anchoring holes under the carpet. Cut holes in the carpet above them, and fix 2 retaining bolts through the bar of the footrests, into the captive nuts. 

Interior light: The interior light tube for the pre 99 model can be bought at most electrical stores – take your old bulb in and get it matched.  

Japanese radio removal: The Japanese radio does not pick up many UK stations. A band expander will help, but to get really good quality reception, you need to fit a UK unit. Unclip the plastic cover on each side of the radio. You'll see 2 holes. Insert either standard radio removal tools or 2 small teaspoon handles into the holes. Pull on the handles to draw out the radio. Adaptors for UK units are available from Halfords and similar stores.

Sluggish sunroof: If the sunroof is reluctant to open, stand up with your head through the sunroof hole. Look down at the sunroof and you'll see the rails/slides. Lubricate them with liquid spray grease, not WDF40.

Sleeping compartment fabric repair, removal: Spinnaker tape (used to repair sails) or seam sealer (used for tents) or 'Tenacious Clear Sealing and Repair Tape' can be used to patch a small tear in the fabric or netting.

The sleeping compartment itself can be removed to undertake larger repairs. Here's how I removed the sleeping compartment on a 1996 Bongo: 

Tools: Phillips screwdrivers P3 for upper screws, P2 for lower screws. You may need a drill, 3/8 ratchet, a right-angled screwdriver, pop rivets and a pop rivet gun.

If screws are difficult to access, try the ratchet or a right-angled screwdriver. Occasionally, I have seen pop rivets used to repalce screws. I drill them out. Araldite or similar glue for replacing any plastic insert screws. Removal time: 2 hours or less. Recommended: Keep the screws. Assistance with final removal.  

	1. Raise the roof 3/4 way up. The fabric is attached to a metal frame. The bottom of the frame is fixed to the vehicle body with black plastic screws. These may also be glued in. 2. Working from back to front, unscrew the bottom screws.
	The top of the frame is attached to the hard roof by metal screws. They are tight. 3. Working from back to front, unscrew them.

There are two springs at the rear of the compartment,  attached top and bottom, from the hard roof to fabric straps. 5. Unclip the springs from the fabric straps, leaving the springs dangling from the roof.

6. The metal framework with fabric will now drop down from the hard top and is ready to remove. It's not heavy but it's difficult to keep steady. To avoid damage, get help to lift it.   

	The fabric is slotted into metal runners which make up the top and bottom of the framework.
	7. Pull the fabric left and right in the direction of the arrows, to slide the fabric out of the frame. This can be tight, silicone lubricant may help with removal.

The bottom frame is pop riveted at the corners. You may need to drill rivets out and replace when reassembled. Once removed from the frame, the fabric is a managable, lightweight piece and can be machined or hand sewn for repairs to the netting, vinyl and zips.
8. To replace the roof compartment, reverse the above procedure. If the screws will no longer grip, they can be secured in place with 'Araldite' or similar glue. Any removed pop rivets will need to be replaced.

Pimp the dash

Changing speedo face: I changed my standard dials to the white ones and fitted chrome rings to finish them off. BDC sprayed the surround with metalflake. The new faces match the after market turbo boost and coolant temperature gauges I had already fitted, in the space above the stereo.

Speedo face photos, top to bottom: 1. Smoothing rear of rings with pen barrel. 2. Dash surround seen from rear, after rings fitted. 3. Removing the speedo face screws. 4. Showing slot in dial face. 5. Lining slot up with short end of needle. 6. Fitting fuel/temp gauge face. 7. Speedo face lit, orange indicator LED's. 8. Metalflake glint.

Pimp the lights

LED lights: Photo shows LED sidelights, LED's across bottom and side of headlights and
LED's in spotlights. The headlights are not lit in this photo.

Pimp the drivers arm rest

This is a simple method of re-covering the armrest. Instructions follow photos, starting top left to right. 

1. Mazda Bongo drivers arm rest showing wear.
2. Lift lid and remove screws.
3. Flip lid back.
4. Peel off old cover.
5. Cover removed.
6. Open small lid, remove screws.
7. Remove tray and peel off cover.
While covers are off, clean plastic pieces if needed.
8. Use the 2 fabric pieces as pattern.
9. Remove 'latch' screws from small lid.
10. Remove latch.
11. Re-cover, use spray adhesive or similar to glue into place (optional).
12. Re-attach latch.
13. Small lid, new cover.
14. Remove screws from hinge of larger lid.
15. Re-cover, glue into place if required.
16. Re-attach hinge.
17. Screw underside of lid back into place.
18. Finished.                           

Pimp with rear bar

Chrome rear bar, fitted here under a towbar.

The bar should be supplied with a fixing plate. On the drivers side, if there's no towbar, you slide the fixing plate above the mounting holes and fit 2 bolts. If you have a towbar, it's 1 bolt.

On the passenger side, there are 2 bolts (with or without towbar).

Check back regularly for more tips!

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